Maintenance of Your Classic Car
This article was submitted by member Mike Jones....thanks Mike! We really need all these great tips to keep our Cadillacs running the way they were meant to run...perfect!
The proper care
and maintenance of your classic car is essential to its well being and
longevity. Many items seem to be "no brainers" but understanding why
these things should be done is as important as doing them. Most of these cars
are lovingly cared for cosmetically, but sometimes the upkeep and care of
mechanical items are neglected. I will not go into cosmetic care, as much has
been written on waxes, polishes and other products. What I want to get into is
some basic maintenance and trouble shooting procedures. I will cover things such
as oil changes, tune-ups, electrical system care and so on.
Oil Changes
Perhaps the most basic, but most important maintenance item is the oil change. Regular oil changes are the best insurance against engine wear and mechanical failure. In normal use, it is recommended that your car's oil be changed every 5000km (3000 miles) or 3 months, whichever occurs first. Normally our collector car sees limited use, usually no more than 3000 miles per year. Now, remember that I said the time interval is every 3 months in normal use. It is not unwise to do this, but depending on the use your car sees, you can modify this somewhat. If your car does not see many long trips, but you do a lot of local cruises, perhaps you should lean to the more frequent side of the schedule. In most short trips, the engine does not get hot enough to "burn off" contaminants. The moisture in the oil caused by normal heat cycling accumulates in the engine and creates acids which attack engine components, specifically bearing surfaces. As the engine warms up, these contaminants are vaporized and drawn out through the PCV system, or dispersed out the road tube. Gasoline traces in the oil act like solvents and attack engine components. These are usually there because of a rich running condition in the warm up cycle. An engine at operating will vaporize the gas in the oil. This is the reason why an engine that runs many short trips should have the oil changed more often.
Today’s oils are vastly superior to the oils used when your car was new. The additive packages protect against molecular breakdown and can suspend more dirt where it is filtered out in the filter. Synthetic oils are also more and more a viable alternative than ever. They have been engineered specifically against the sort of things that shorten the life of conventional oils. Beware, however, many oils that are called "synthetic" are not completely synthetic. The regulations in the U.S. have allowed a percentage of the content to be conventional but still be called synthetic. They are actually a blend. Their cost also is a factor. Typically, synthetics cost significantly more than conventional oils. Personally, I prefer to use a good quality conventional oil and change it often.
A habit that I have gotten into, is to put fresh oil and filter on the engine just before I store it for the winter. The idea is that the oil is fresh and better able to deal with moisture and other contaminants while the car is in storage. I then change the oil again as soon as possible when the car is returned to service for the summer.
Always change the
filter when changing the oil also.
Electrical System
The battery is the most important part of the electrical system. A battery has a finite life, but a little care can make it last longer and be more reliable. The battery and the alternator/generator walk hand in hand. What one does can affect the other. If the battery is weak, it will demand more of the charging system, causing it to overwork and damage components. A charging system that is not up to snuff can tax the battery and all other electrical components, especially motors. Low voltage causes the motor to demand a higher amperage to do the same amount of work. Amperage causes heat which can cause the motor to "burn out". Also a higher amperage draw from a starter motor can cause the plates in the battery to be magnetically attracted to one another causing them to buckle.
Always be sure that the battery is fully charged before using the car. Never use the charging system to charge a battery. It was never designed to do this. The charging system is to run the accessory load and maintain the battery charge, that's it.
If you find that your car is hard to start when hot, but all seems to be well other wise, check the performance of the starter motor. An amperage draw test will if it is OK or defective. Normally a starter draw on a V-8 engine will be in the vicinity of 175 amps, a six cylinder about 140-150. If the battery is at the correct voltage, any number significantly higher than this spells trouble. Check all connections thoroughly. They must be clean and dry. Don't forget the grounds either.
To check the charging system, use a voltmeter across the battery terminals. With a fully charged battery and no accessory load, the reading should be in the range of 13.5-14.5 volts in an alternator equipped 12 volt system and about 7-7.5 volts in a 6 volt system. A lower voltage reading could mean a partially charged battery, defective or non-functioning charging system or even a high load on the system.
Also inspect
wiring from time to time. Make sure it is routed away from moving components and
hot surfaces. Inspect the condition of the insulation. Inspect the connectors
for signs of excessive heat and or corrosion. This is especially critical in
areas subject to the elements such as light harnesses or in the engine
compartment.
I will cover other
areas in future issues such as the ignition system, cooling system and so on. So
until next time, enjoy your Canadian Classic. Thanks for listening.
Ignition System
This is an area that sees much attention. In the days when point type systems were common, tune ups twice a year were routine. Many of our classics still posses this system, but in this day and age, not many mechanics really know how to service it. The breaker points are basically a switch. All they do is turn on and off the current to the primary windings in the coil. Since they are a purely mechanical component, they are subject to wear. As soon as you start the engine after installing a new set of points, they begin to wear and go out of adjustment. This is the main reason why electronic systems were developed.
If you are one, like myself, who puts your car into storage in the winter, point condenser replacement should be done in the spring. Remember always change the condenser. Points are prone to corrosion and can cause drivability problems if let sit for a long period of time. The old Bakelite caps can also crack and cause carbon tracking which in turn results in a car that will not start or runs poorly. Modern distributor caps are made of plastic and are less prone to this condition, but always give it a good look for signs of cracking and corrosion on the terminals.
Ignition wires have also been vastly improved over the years. Silicon wires have replaced the old Hypalon jobs. They are less prone to deterioration caused by heat and contaminants. Check for areas where the have rubbed through or split due to oil contamination. They can still crossfire under severe conditions, such as starting in the cool damp weather. They will usually become hard to the touch instead of that nice rubbery feel they have when new when they begin to deteriorate. In an old car that is well cared for and sees limited use, they can last for many years.
Spark plugs were also replaced on the twice a year tune up. One of the big factors in this was the use of lead in the fuel. It would tend to wear and contaminate the plugs faster. With the use of unleaded fuels, spark plugs can last 2,3,4 years depending on use. If your car has electronic ignition, they can last a long time. Of course, some of the high performance engines of the sixties were hard on plugs to begin with, but even these tend to last longer.
Chrysler products and their ballast resistors are the story of legend. You always carried a spare in the glove box. When the resistor went, the car would start, but as soon as you released the key, the engine quit. Replace this unit every year. And still carry a spare.
We must not
forget the rotor inside the cap. Replace it with the points and condenser.
Transmission and Driveline
Many older cars from the past 50 years have some form of automatic transmission. Automatic transmissions first appeared on Oldsmobiles in 1939. Since then an increasing number of cars have been equipped with them. Some of these early units could be quite temperamental unless set up properly. Use of the correct fluid in many was of paramount importance.
Over the years automatic transmissions have become more refined and durable, but problems still arise. Most of them are a result of poor maintenance or miss-use. Another problem can arise from cars that have been stored for extended periods of time or are not driven regularly. The fluid in the transmissions must be changed periodically to prevent varnishing, contamination from moisture and wear. The normal recommended interval is 60,000 km or 35,000 miles. A change of fluid every couple of years is good practice in cars not often driven. Most fluids today are compatible and in some cases recommended for older transmissions. One problem, though, with new types of fluids, they will not handle the heat as well as older types due to the general use of lock-up torque converters today. The converter is where most of the heat is generated due to the 10% slippage. In severe use the fluid should be changed more often Check with a specialist for you particular trans.
In cars that have been stored for long periods of time, or are infrequently used, drying out and shrinking of seals is a problem. This may not necessarily show up as an external leak, but may rear its head as sluggish or poor performance. The addition of a fluid conditioner is recommended. This will help soften and extend the life of the seals.
In transmissions that require periodic band adjustments, it is wise to have that done in the spring.
Slippage, rough or sloppy shifting, high or low shift points or burnt and discolored fluid is a good indicator of impending problems. Have it checked out before the problem gets severe. Time is important here, the longer you leave it, the greater the damage that will result.
Manual transmissions do not need the care of an automatic. The fluid is generally 80W90 gear oil, but in some applications may use automatic transmission fluid. In some cases, a switch to synthetic oil is OK. This will allow easier shifting in colder weather while giving adequate protection.
Manual transmissions are generally pretty reliable with a minimum of care. Be on the lookout for hard shifting and any unusual noises such as grinding or howling noises. The clutch release bearing can give some problem. This will show up as a grinding noise when the clutch is released.
Replacement of the fluid ideally should be done every 3 or 4 years with normal use.
The clutch requires little maintenance. All’s that is requires is a periodic adjustment of free play. This is the free play you feel when you depress the clutch slightly before the clutch begins to release. If there is no free play, the clutch cannot exert adequate force for engagement and the release bearing is forced onto the pressure plate.
The clutch take-up should be smooth. If there is lurching, jumping or chattering then the flywheel surface may have hot spots (areas of carbon buildup) or the damper springs on the pressure plate may be loose. In either case it means clutch replacement.
If the clutch does not begin to take up until the pedal travel is near the top (but still has free play when the clutch is engaged) or there is slippage in high gear then the clutch is worn and must be replaced. Always replace the release bearing and machine the flywheel when you replace the clutch.
There are 2 basic types of drive shafts used. The closed torque tube and the open Hotchkiss types. The torque tube type was fairly popular up until the early fifties when the open type began to take over. AMC used the torque tube until 1965!
The torque tube type are generally reliable. There is a trunion type joint at the trans and the whole shaft is enclosed and runs in oil. The main problem is leakage at the boot at the front of the shaft. Torque tube shafts are more difficult to service than open types for obvious reasons.
The open type are generally reliable and trouble free and are easy to repair when there are problems. Most common complaint is worn U-joints. This shows up as a vibration as speed increases, or a squeaking or clicking noise at low speeds. Sometimes you may notice a click when engaging a drive gear or going from drive to reverse. Replacement of the joints should be left to the professional if you are not familiar with them.
The final component in the drive line is the rear axle or differential. Most cars use what is called a “live axle” meaning that the differential, axles, brake assemblies are one unit. The other type is the independent suspension or IRS. The differential is bolted solidly to the frame, while the axles and wheels are free to move through their travel independently of other components. Two basic types of differentials are used, the open and limited slip, and there a different types of limited slip. The most common uses clutches to transfer torque to both rear wheels, but allows some slippage for cornering. These types use a specific fluid and you must also us an additive. Since wear occurs between the clutch plates, the fluid must be changed periodically and the additive used. The clutches can chatter in sharp cornering causing the rear end to feel like it is jumping. This is an indicator that the fluid must be changed. Normally 50,000 miles is a good interval, but owing to the nature of our classic cars, if your car is equipped with a limited slip diff, once every few years will suffice, except for severe use (trailer towing, racing) were it should be changed more frequently.
Open differentials need to have the fluid changed at the same interval as a limited slip type, but most all will use 80W90 fluid as in a manual transmission.
Inspect for leaks in the pinion (where the drive shaft goes in) and at the axle seals. To inspect the axle seals, you will have to remove the brake drums, but this can be done during routine brake inspections. A leak at any seal may be an indicator of a worn bearing forcing the seal to travel beyond its designed flexibility. Normally the seal is just worn and replacement usually cures the problem. Gear oil leaking into the brake drums makes a really gooey mess and can cause brake lockup on moderate application. The brake shoes should be replaced when a seal leaks unless the contamination is very slight. A good brake clean can usually clean them up.